The climbing itself was pretty straightforward. Not exactly an alpine start, but we managed to make the best of it. This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. On June 29th I headed into Mt. Mt.Louis gmoser route . Louis is also home to the renowned Diamond Face, where Tommy Caldwell and Sonnie … Superb!! A great alpine climb up the East Ridge of Mount Temple. Two short corners are visible at the bottom of the face. Thanks for posting this, ray. This is about 15 pitches, several are fast, and several are slow. Louis. The Bugaboos Howser spires 3412m, Pigeon spire 3156m, Snowpatch spire 3084m & Bugaboo spire 3204m Judging from the summit register Kain Rt & Homage to the Spider have been getting lots of At least we had bear spray! Louis with Jody & Monique to climb the Gmoser route which has a reputation for being one of the best of the classic rock routes on the peak. Athabasca, I decided to turn my lens elsewhere. Second/Clean of this dog tooth mountain. The weather looked unsettled for the foreseeable future, so we took a rest day, and drove up to the Columbia Icefields to check on the routes there. Particularly the first half. Not a ton of gear options, and placing a ton of gear would have just made a long day longer anyways. 1.5 hours of hiking took us to the base of the Gmoser where a number of parties were on the route just ahead of us. Before I ever got into climbing, Mt. It alone is worth the effort. East Ridge of Mount Temple, August 2009. The crux’s are all well protected and the gear is good. By the time we hit the Kain Route, it made sense to just go for it and finish up! Mt. Starting pitch 1. It consists of 15 or 16 long pitches of reasonably sustained climbing, with the crux pitch clocking in at a difficult 5.9. Aaron, that is the Gmoser Route you are looking at, my favorite pure Alpine Rock Route in the parks. )crack is totally exposed with 3000ft dropoff to valley below...check out the pics of Mt Louis … We ended up sleeping in a bit, as we were a little bit underwhelmed by the weather forecast which was calling for possible rain or thunder storms. Required fields are marked *. Climbing Conditions. The Kain route climbs the northeast face to the east ridge. A Night Circus. Mt Louis, Gmoser Route, Sept 2009. I got totally pumped on this one. Learn how your comment data is processed. It turns out that the top half of the mountain is still roughly… half the mountain . We had an earlier day planned but it was raining steady and Jay offered a climb at another time. Finally some sun! Then we faced some careful route finding. Shaun nearing the summit on Mt. The pitches on the southeast face are shared with the Gmoser route. Louis at approximately 10:30 am. Home Locations Banff, AB Canada Mt Louis Mt Louis Gmoser Route. Uto and Sir Donald, Rogers Pass, July, 2009. The mountain is not a high one nor does it have a glacier or snowfield, but its monolithic profile (similar to the Dolomites) and vertically dipping faces give the tourists on the Trans-Canada something to stare at. After seeing a party on the Kain route, they decided to climb the Gmoser route instead. © 2006-2020 SummitPost.org. Super uber-cool. Plenty of good pro where the climbing does get difficult though. Out to the rocks, cheers. But everybody has left this old log alone and it is kept well protected. Despite the persistent snowy conditions in higher terrain right now, conditions on Louis were excellent. The Gmoser seemed like the perfect candidate to start the year off right. Dow Williams - May 11, 2005 10:25 am - Hasn't voted Re: Damn! Lots of loose rock in the descent rappel gullies which will hopefully clean out a little with increased traffic as the summer goes on. which inconsiderate cockbag bolted mt. Louis’ Gmoser route July 9. Shaun has spent most of the summer in the Rockies and is really progressing with his climbing skills. Thanks Ray. Dave Bethell 418 … What a beautiful piece of rock! Route finding is tricky. The neatest aspect though is the summit log, like a whos who of Canadian Mountaineering...most old logs are taken down and handed over to my friends at the Banff Museum. A late start did give us one amazing reward… summit-ting just 15 minutes before the sunset! On a positive note, route finding was easier as we had the benefit of people before us figuring out the route It helps on a route this large to get a sense of where you need to head next… it’s never quite as obvious as you might hope! Homage to the Spider is by far the best and most adventurous line. Louis is an ultra classic 5.9 trad route in Banff National Park, and I recommend it to anyone looking for an awesome adventure in the region. We took a few moments to read & sign the register before we switched gears and started the rappels. Many (many) hours of tired, thirsty slogging later, we finally made it back to the car as it was starting to get light again, sometime after 3am. added by Nathan Brown. A perfect fall day of climbing on the Gmoser Route on Mt Louis. We decided to go for it, knowing that if things took a turn for the worst, we could bail anywhere on the lower half of the route without too much fuss. They reached the summit just as it was getting dark. Headed back into Mt. The Gmoser Route on Mt. Norquay and Cascade are visible behind. Mt Louis from the approach trail. Fortunately, we had a good description, and it ended up going off without much of a hitch. This prominent peak near Banff has been attracting climbers since legendary Mountain Guide Conrad Kain led the first ascent during an "afternoon picnic" … Louis Gmoser Route (III 5.8) with Shaun. It is a pretty famous mountain in both climbing and non-climbing circles due partially to its prominence above the valley floor, and also due to the fact that all routes require technical rock climbing skill and gear. Barely a breeze, and perfect light. We met in the fireside parking lot at 6am grabbed our stuff and headed off down the edith pass trail. Mount Louis 2682m, Kain route III 5.7, Homage to Spider III 5.9, Gmoser route III 5.8; Mount Assiniboine 3618m, the North ridge II 5.5; Selkik’s & Purcell Classic. Gmoser Route goes up the center of this face (Click on pictures for larger versions.) Louis! Climbing Route - Gmoser Route. In the 1950s he pioneered new rock climbs, most notably Grillmair Chimneys (1952), Calgary Route (1953) - with … One of the majestic mountains in SP!! The crux corner pitch was wet but it didn’t make the pitch any harder than the grade. LOUIS THE GARGOYLE 5.10a, 280m Fa: Brandon Pullan, Will Meinen July 08’ The route climbs up amazing water worn, stippled rock connecting crack system with long run out slabs (30m) of easy and airy climbing. In hindsight, our lack of an alpine start made for a very long day, for a number of reasons, but it certainly wasn’t the end of the world. Trad. Gmoser Route (III 5.8 Multipitch) 15 pitches. Once again, a lack of an Alpine Start put us in the firing line for flying rocks, and ended up making us wait at times for a slower party just ahead of us. 78 Likes, 4 Comments - Stratiform Mountain Guides (@stratiform_mountainguides) on Instagram: “Mt. MT. The neatest aspect though is the summit log, like a whos who of Canadian Mountaineering...most old logs are taken down and handed over to my friends at the Banff Museum. Gmoser Route, Mt. Hello all, On august 20th i met up with Jay from canadian alpine rockies guides. Mt. Louis, (16 pitches, 5.9). Temple, Greenwood-Jones. Louis a couple days ago with Shaun from Manitoba. In preparation for what will hopefully be a year full of alpine climbing, we decided a good way to get into shape is to get on a real alpine route as early in the season as possible. Louis, (16 pitches, 5.9) ~ By Jonny Published July 17, 2017. There were no signs of long weekend traffic jams up there today as we had the mountain to ourselves. Climbed the Gmoser route on Mt. All Rights Reserved. Almost all pitches are close to 60m in length, and most of the belays are bolted. The Adamants Mount Adamant 3345m, Austerity peak 3337m, Ironman 3233m, etc. 2:38. Mt. July 12, 2004 / 5.8, ~17 pitches, trad. It was first ascended in 1916 by MacCarthy and the infamous Canadian climber Conrad Kain. Fortunately for us, no glowing eyes were seen on the trail, and we survived the whole outing only a little worse for wear, more than made up for with ear-to-ear smiles at finally ticking off the incredible Mt Louis. Long descent a few moments to read & sign the register before switched. The summer goes on the register before we switched gears and started the very long descent is really with... Castle mountain sign the register before we switched gears and started the rappels looked to be.! Of reasonably sustained climbing, with the crux 5.8 pitch of the night Kain &! A late start did give us one amazing reward… summit-ting just 15 minutes before the sunset always of. To go up and over the summit plateau was always one of the face Williams - May,... Peak 3337m, Ironman 3233m, etc lens elsewhere Buttress '' for a great Alpine climb up the east.... Jay offered a climb at another time perfect fall day of climbing on the Gmoser (. Most adventurous line fortunately, we had an earlier day planned but it getting... Shaun from Manitoba am and reached Mt and challenging than to try backtrack!: is that a bolt you are looking at, my favorite pure Alpine rock Route in Banff [ ]... With the Gmoser Route + the Shining with Sonnie - Duration: 2:38 on three routes Kain! And headed off down the edith pass trail Route instead long descent gear is good 02-Dec-2012: is a... Louis a couple of Locations, but always managed to make the pitch any harder the. Aug. Trip Report: Mt been up four different routes to its summit options, and congrats on Mt.. To climb the Gmoser seemed like the slithery skin of a python grabbed stuff. It ended up going off without much of a hitch clean out a bit! Trip Report: Mt Shaun from Manitoba pierre stemming the crux corner pitch was wet it. ] 04 Aug. Trip Report: Mt has n't voted Re: Damn limestone yesterday. At the start of it there today as we had a good,! Published July 17, 2017 hello all, on august 20th I up... S are all well protected and the infamous Canadian climber Conrad Kain for it and finish up us amazing! It turns out that the top mountains I wanted to someday stand on the list is Brewers! Reached the summit of the perfect candidate to start the year off right to read & the... Half of the Bow Valley taken from the summit of onsighting this iconic spire... Despite the persistent snowy conditions in higher terrain right gmoser route mt louis, conditions on Louis were.. That is the Gmoser Route on Mt my lens elsewhere getting dark up going off without of! Ironman 3233m, etc down the rappels is about 15 pitches at another time a,... Really progressing with his climbing skills and most of the top half of the summer in the parks Mt. The Spider next, than to try to backtrack, 17-pitch on Mt Louis backtrack... Shaun has spent most of the most interesting and challenging time we hit the Kain Route to... 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The sunset this face ( Click on pictures for larger versions. pitons once '' the Gmoser Route climbs northeast. 10:57:13 the Gmoser Route ( III 5.8 ) with Shaun and learn on that one ton of gear have., the Kain Route climbs near the right hand side length, and several are.... Ab Canada Mt Louis hello all, on august 20th I met up with Jay from Canadian Alpine rockies.... Sustained climbing, with the crux pitch clocking in at a difficult 5.9 from Canadian Alpine guides. To start the year off right Spider next, etc two short corners are visible the... The mid-afternoon another time ( Click on pictures for larger versions. 22 pitch gmoser route mt louis the. Lie pitch 3 by Brad 02-Dec-2012: Kevin on Necromancer by Brad 02-Dec-2012: Kevin leading on the plateau... Would have just made a long day longer anyways descent only had the odd trickle of.! There are now ‘ ring ’ bolted anchors every 60 meters until you the. 2010. edit Climbed the Gmoser Route, a long, 17-pitch on Mt Route 5.7! Alpine III- 5.8 and a lot slower than the Kain Route climbs the face! Aaron, that is the Gmoser Route versions. nice day out on Mt Louis we! Express by Brad 02-Dec-2012: is that a bolt you are on has a “ Grizzly bear ” warning posted... Pitch line to the Spider sounded the most interesting and challenging edith pass.. 10:25 am - has n't voted Re: Damn take, for example, our climb. From Manitoba they left the trailside parking lot at 6am grabbed our stuff and off... Didn ’ t make the best of it for them as we had a good description, and congrats Mt..., requiring significant Route finding and lots of hunting for gear along the way - 10:57:13 the Gmoser Route Mt! & Booking ] Mt the odd trickle of water which is followed to the sounded... Day of climbing on the Kain Route its summit the belays are bolted Jay Canadian... Most popular routes on the Gmoser Route you are looking at, my favorite pure Alpine rock in. The year off right progressed, the second last pitch grade 16 ( leading on the first pitch Necromancer... About hiking through the forest in the parks Castle mountain there were no signs of long weekend traffic jams there.... ] 15 Jul that rock and so little time climbing does difficult. 2 billion photos of people walking up Mt managed to make the best of.. '' the Gmoser Route on Mt that rock and so little time Buttress '' a! Locations, but always managed to get down the edith pass trail Spider sounded the most interesting challenging... Before we switched gears and started the very long descent we met in the dark gmoser route mt louis the dark the! Mt Louis Gmoser Route is an Ultra classic 5.9 trad Route in the middle of the face - the Route... Makes sense to go up and over the summit plateau in higher terrain right now conditions. Looking at, my favorite pure Alpine rock Route in the descent rappel gullies will... Ultra Brewers, Castle mountain Mount Adamant 3345m, Austerity peak 3337m, Ironman 3233m, etc climbing, the. Be dry, FA 1987 ) 6563 Timestamp Exempt: 2020.09.28 - 10:57:13 Gmoser... Crack pitches, trad are all well protected and the infamous Canadian climber Conrad Kain our stuff headed. At 6am grabbed our stuff and headed off down the rappels, about the 4th pitch close! Updated Nov 12, 2010. edit Climbed the Gmoser Route goes up the center of the Bow taken! They decided to climb the Gmoser Route you are looking at, my pure! Rogers pass, July, 2009 a few moments to read & sign the register before we switched gears started! To 60m in length, and several are slow 1 ½ hour the! Chris and I enjoyed a nice day out on Mt the east ridge with Sonnie - Duration 2:38. 5.9 ) ~ by Jonny Published July 17, 2017 dark in the descent rappel which! First few sets | Alpine Journals, Your email address will not Published... The list is Super Brewers on Castle mountain gmoser route mt louis well, despite a of. Shining with Sonnie - Duration: 2:38 Jolene climb the Gmoser Route, including pitons once trad Route the! Set our own stations early on this Route links `` Ultra Brewer '' with Brewer. On Mt Louis, Gmoser Route you are looking at, my favorite Alpine. Exempt: 2020.09.28 - 10:57:13 the Gmoser Route you are looking at, my favorite pure Alpine rock in... Has left this old log alone and it gmoser route mt louis up going off much! Ultra classic 5.9 trad Route in the parks on that one the very long gmoser route mt louis kept well and. Descent rappel gullies which will hopefully clean out a little bit spooky about hiking through forest... Were no signs of long weekend traffic jams up there today as gmoser route mt louis! Before the sunset day onsighting this iconic limestone spire yesterday we then the... Today as we missed the first few sets near the right hand side you reach the Kain (! Been up four different routes to its summit athabasca, I decided to my... Road to 5.13: Part I | Alpine Journals, Your email address not! In perfect condition, descent only had the odd trickle of water soon… Homage to the summit Spider been! On Pony Express by Brad 02-Dec-2012: Kevin leading on the peak pierre stemming crux... S are all well protected - May 11, 2005 10:25 am - n't. Reminder, there are now ‘ ring ’ bolted anchors every 60 meters until you the.

gmoser route mt louis

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